Overnight Backpacking Checklist
(Choose items that match your trip plans and the
expected weather conditions)
The 10+ Essentials |
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Hiking Clothing |
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Outerwear |
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Footwear |
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Other Items |
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Camping
Gear |
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1. Map:
Always carry a detailed map of the area you will be at and a waterproof map/chart holder. Consider the 7.5-minute USGS maps--they reveal considerable detail. For traveling on trails, the 15-minute series Green Trails is a good choice. The point is to carry a map appropriate for the area you will be in and know how to use it!
Carry a compass, at all times --and know how to use it! Some features to look for:
Suunto MC-2G Navigator; weighs 2.6 oz.
Silva Ranger; weighs 3 oz, (same features as Suunto MC-2G, only without the luminous bezel).
Flashlights and/or Headlamps are important . You never know when you might need make that last mile or so after sunset. Here's some features to look for:
It's
a good idea to carry a small lightweight hand-held light in addition to a
headlamp. In the hand held light use a regular bulb, which requires less
battery juice than the bright-beam bulbs. Use this light for simple chores, to
conserve batteries. In the headlamp, use a halogen (or other bright-beam bulb)
and use this light when you are path finding or otherwise require a bright
beam.
Suggestions
for a small, lightweight, high-quality hand held light:
Suggestions
for a small, lightweight, high-quality headlamp:
Bring extra food in case you are delayed by emergencies, foul weather. The mountaineers suggest a one-day supply. At the very least, bring one good meal more than what you need. The food should require little or no cooking. If your extra food will require cooking, make sure you also carry extra fuel for your stove.
In addition to the basic layers you would normally take on an outing, bring extra clothing which would get you through the worst conditions you might come up against. Extra clothing means a little extra beyond what you would normally carry, just in case of emergencies.
Your eyes can experience damage from the intensity of mountain skies, ultraviolet rays, and light reflecting off of snow. As elevation increases so does the intensity of ultraviolet rays. Adequate eye protection is a must! For traveling on snow, get a pair of glacier glasses with side shields which reduce reflective light reaching the eyes.
Bolle' makes a lightweight pair of glasses with a virtually indestructible polycarbonate lens. They are optically correct and have emerald green lens for true color. They are rated 100 % UV protection. Cost is about US $40.00.
There are many other brands
of sunglasses and glacier glasses which are less expensive and provide adequate
protection. Shop around, but be careful. Try to stay with reputable brand
names. Your eyes will know damage, long before you feel discomfort.
What to carry? A good book to reference is "Mountaineering First Aid" 3rd edition, by Lentz, Macdonald, and Carline, published by The Mountaineers.
This
booklet was used as a text for the Mountaineers' MOFA (Mountaineering Oriented
First Aid) course. It is easy reading, small (5 1/4 x 8 1/2 inches), brief (95
pages) and inexpensive ($8.95). It identifies what items to carry, as well as
what to do in emergency situations.
Once
you are familiar with the supplies you need, you can purchase a kit or make
your own. If you purchase one, you'll most likely need to add to it (items like
CPR mask, rubber gloves, etc.) since most commercially prepared kits are
inadequate.
6 - Airways (sizes 1-6)
1 - MDi micromask
6 - Disposable gloves
1 - Alcohol gel
1 - Biohazard bag
1 - Pair Excalibur glasses
3 - Triangular bandages
1-10" x 30" trauma dressing
2 - 2" flexicon gauze
2 - 4" flexicon gauze
10 - 4" x 4" gauze pads
2 - 5" x 9"
ARD pads
3 - 1/2" x 5 yrds adhesive tape
10 - STAT strips 3/4" x 3"
Your basic backpacking tool kit. A good example of a single piece of gear which has multiple uses. For example, a Wenger "Master" Swiss Army Knife has a locking blade; "slip-joint" pliers/wire crimper/wire cutters; springless self-sharpening scissors; wood saw; nail file/cleaner; corkscrew; awl/reamer; can opener; cap lifter; tweezers; and toothpick--all at a weight of about 6 ounces. Swiss-Army knives are available with more and less features.
At
a minimum, knives are useful for first aid, food preparation, cutting moleskin
strips, cutting rope and making repairs. However, scrutinize your needs before
you go out and buy a honker like the Victorinox Swiss Champ which has many
tools you probably don't need and weighs 1/2 pound ! If you don't actually use
a feature, then you probably don't need to be carrying it around.
Carry matches which have been waterproofed or wind and waterproofed, or else carry extra strike-anywhere matches--along with something to strike them on-- in a waterproof container. Keep these matches separate from your regular match or butane lighter supply. Keep them available for emergency situations.
There
are many commercially prepared waterproof/windproof matches available on the
market, e.g., “REI” "Hurricane" and "Cyclone" brands of
wind & waterproof matches and Coghlan's waterproof safety matches.
Fire starters are useful for quickly starting a fire, especially in emergency situations. They are also useful for igniting wet wood. There are several commercial fire starters available: magnesium blocks w/striking flint; chemically-treated fire sticks, etc.
In addition, numerous home-made fire starters work just fine: plumber's candles (wax); compressed balls of dryer lint mixed with or covered with melted paraffin; small strips of waxed cardboard (from old produce boxes); small flammable containers--individual egg-carton cups filled with mixtures of wood shavings, wax, & lint; etc.
Carry plenty of fresh water.
If
you aren't bringing your water from home, treat the water you draw from the
backcountry, regardless of the source. Everything is suspect.
Use water filter, purifier, chemical tablets, or boiling to
treat the water before consuming.
For transporting inside your pack, use lightweight water bottles, such as
Nalgene 16 oz and 32 oz lexan polycarbonate or high-density polyethylene
wide-mouth bottles. Some use other containers such as old plastic pop bottles.
That's okay too. Be careful they don't crack and/or leak, though.
SteriPEN By Hydro-Photon weight with batteries (4-AA) 6.7 oz
It requires relatively clear water to start with; this is not a filter, only a purifier.
It works by using UV light to sterilize the organisms, thus preventing them from multiplying.
It works in less than two minutes on up to 1 qt (1 L) of water, 16 oz (0.5 L) at a time.
The SteriPEN measures 7.6" x 1.5" x 1.5"
Katadyn Mini Filter
Ceramic
microstrainer removes bacteria and protozoans, including giardia and
cryptosporidia. Silver impregnation inhibits bacterial growth inside filter
pores. Comes with 30" intake hose, cleaning brush and case. Use iodine or
chlorine where viruses are suspected, weight 8 ounces, Dimensions 7 x 2.75 x
1.75 inches
Katadyn Micropur - 20 Pack
Features the same proven technology used in municipal water supplies; effective against viruses, bacteria, Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Destroys viruses and bacteria in 15 minutes, Giardia in 30 minutes and Cryptosporidia in four hours. Meets the U.S. EPA purification guidelines; active ingredient is chlorine dioxide. Each tablet is individually wrapped and sealed. While a four-hour wait time may be inconvenient, alternative disinfectants do not claim to destroy Cryptosporidium. Twenty-pack supply provides five gallons of water
Caution:
Metal whistles, with a pea, can be a problem in the mountains. Your
"pea" can freeze up, and what happens when you put your lips on
frozen metal?
A better choice would be a pea-less plastic whistle like the Fox 40. It is ultra-light and very shrill. Cost about $6.00. REI
Three ways to deal with the biting flies, mosquitoes, gnats, etc. are to (1) let them eat you (2) use repellents or (3) wear clothing. Since the first option doesn't cut it, there are numerous commercial repellents on the market. Most of them are DEET based. REI Jungle Juice works okay but the stuff gets everything oily. There are many good creams but they need to be reapplied more frequently. There are extended duration DEET products which do not soak into the skin as fast and provide up to 12 hours of protection--such as 3M Ultrathon (now only available as "Hourguard 12" thru Amway).
Remember, the higher the elevation, the greater the intensity of the sun. Although each of us has a different capacity -- a.k.a. different pigmentation -- for withstanding the sun's onslaught, the message is the same--the penalty for underestimating your need for protection is severe.
In sunny conditions, wear light-colored clothing and cover exposed skin, at least, with SPF rated sunscreen appropriate for you, at least 15. Wear coverings over the neck and ears. OR (Outdoor Research) and other manufacturers make baseball-style caps with skirts which cover the neck and ears. Carry an SPF-rated lip-balm, as well, and reapply frequently.
HIKING BOOTS
Appropriate for the terrain you’ll be in. Remember to treat
them, before you go, with Nikwax or some other waterproofing agent. The
Montrail Torre GTX hiking boots, lining Gore-Tex/nylon, average weight 3 lbs. 4
oz. is an excellent boot. I have used them for the past 3 years, and they have
kept my feet dry during all types of weather.
Breaking in
The key to breaking in new hiking boots is to take things slowly.
Remember -- your feet aren't as tough as your new boots, so if you rush things,
your feet are likely to pay the price.
Different boots will require different amounts of break-in time. Lightweight
models may feel perfect right out of the box, while heavier, all-leather models
may require weeks to soften up and form to your feet.
NOTE: Most hiking boots stretch out slightly as they break in. But the
break-in process will not turn a poor fit into a good one! Make sure the boots
you buy feel snug yet comfortable before you take them home.
The basic break-in procedure
·
Begin by
wearing your boots for short periods of time inside the house. Wear the kinds
of socks you're likely to be wearing out on the trail. Lace your boots up
tight, and make sure the tongues are lined up and the gusset material is folded
flat. The creases you form as you break-in your boots will likely remain for
the life of the boot.
·
Your new
boots will be a little stiff at first, which is fine. But if you notice
significant pinching, rubbing or pain right off the bat, you may want to take
the boots back and try a different style.
·
If after
several short indoor sessions your boots seem to fit comfortably, expand your
horizons. Wear your new boots to the local store, around town or while working
in the yard. Gradually increase the amount of time you spend in your boots and
the distances you cover. Make sure your boots feel good at each stage before
increasing your distance.
NOTE: Make sure your new boots fit comfortably before you wear them outside!
·
Be
vigilant throughout the break-in process for any pain or discomfort. As soon as
you notice either, take the boots off. Remember -- small problems can become
big ones very quickly. If everything feels good, try adding a little weight on
your back as you hike, and/or hiking on more challenging trails.
·
If your
boots feel good throughout the break-in process, but a single pinch or a hot
spot remains, you may be able to correct the problem area by visiting a
shoe-repair shop or your local REI store. Most have stretching devices that can
help alleviate localized boot-fitting problems.
No such thing as a "quick fix"
There is no fast and easy method when it comes to breaking in new hiking boots.
To do a good job, you have to put in the time.
Avoid "quick-fix" approaches like getting your boots soaking wet then
walking long distances. They're too hard on your boots and they'll be murder on
your feet. Also make sure you follow the manufacturer's care and water proofing
instructions carefully
Surefoot Get-A-Grip Xtreme
This slip-on traction device is specially designed for larger and oversize winter boots, providing excellent stability on ice and slick surfaces. Six replaceable carbide spikes are centered in forefoot and heel for grip Rubber base has bi-directional tread molded into the forefoot for added slip-resistance. Specially formulated rubber retains elasticity in all temperatures and won't stretch out.
BASE LAYERS: (NO COTTON!)
___ Lightweight thermal underwear top
___ Lightweight thermal underwear bottom
INSULATION: (winter)
___ Light Fleece Jacket--200 or 300 weight
___ Light Fleece Vest--200 or 300 weight (optional, use your good judgment)
SHELL:
___ Windproof, waterproof, highly-breathable Parka or Jacket--pit zips, 2-way zipper, & pack pockets for ventilation; adjustable hood & hem; and large enough to allow layering underneath.
___ Windproof, waterproof,
highly-breathable Pants--full-length side zips for easy entry &
ventilation.
OTHER BACKPACKING ESSENTIALS:
___ Hiking Socks & Liners (+ extra pair)
___ Quick-drying hiking shorts (wear over the thermal underwear in cool
weather)
___ Thin fleece gloves (e.g., lightweight Patagonia)
___ Fleece Cap or
___ Baseball cap (wool, synthetic--cotton ok in warmer weather)
___ Toilet Paper
FOOD: (Take enough for the
day & extra for one meal)
___ Gorp (nuts, seeds, dried fruit, M&Ms)
___ Hard Cheese (lasts longer)
___ Jerky (beef/turkey) or salami
___ Cookies
___ Crackers
___ Tiger's Milk Bars
___ Licorice Sticks
___ Kudos
___ Bear Valley MealPacks
___ Power Bars (Berry)
___ Chewing Gum
___ Gatorade
___ Bagels, English muffins
___ String cheese (individually wrapped)
___ Chocolate & candy
___ Dried fruit (raisins, apples, pears, peaches, bananas)
___ Dried meat and fish
___ Giant pretzels
___ Raw fruit / vegetables
___ Nuts
___ Pop Tarts
___ Fig/Peach/Apple Newtons
OPTIONAL:
___ Bandanna (cotton ok)
___ Gore-Tex Socks (in damp environs, keeps feet warm & dry)
___ Gaiters (long for snow or short for screen dirt & mud)
___ Pack Rain Cover
___ Parachute cord (many uses)
___ Duct tape (many uses)
___ Moleskin (if not part of First Aid Kit)
BACKPACK
___ A pack with approximately 3000 to 4400 cu in is satisfactory. You'll need to experiment to find what works for you.
SLEEPING
SYSTEM:
___ Sleeping Pad (Big Agnes Air Core Mummy Pad – Regular 1 lb. 3 oz., Comfort rating to 35°, dimensions 72 x 20 x 2.5 inches, weight 1 lb. 3 oz. Big Agnes Insulated Air Core Pad – Regular Comfort range to 15°, dimensions 72 x 20 x 2.5 inches, weight 1 lb. 8 oz.)
___
Sleeping Bag: 3-Season (light 20 degree bag should be enough most of the time)
___
Sleeping Bag: Winter (If you have only one bag, e.g. the 20 degree bag above,
you can add warmth to it by using it together with a bivy sack and/or by
wearing some or all of your clothes to bed.)
___
Tent (3 -season)
(REI Half Dome 2 HC Tent 2 person, 34 square feet, average packaged weight 2 lbs. 6 oz, floor dimensions 115
x 112 inches, peak height 41 inches, rainfly fabric coated nylon ripstop)
___
Optional if going light & fast overnight with Bivy: Lightweight Tarp for
rain/snow cover
(Sierra
Designs Origami 2 UL Shelter 2 person, 52 square feet, average packaged weight
5 lbs. 11 oz., floor dimensions 90 x 54 inches, peak height 58 inches, canopy
fabric coated polyester taffeta)
COOKING:
___
Lightweight Trail Stove (Whisperlite, Weight
(w/ no fuel) 13.12 ounces, fuel type:
white gas; Primus
Alpine Ultra Light Titanium Stove 3 oz. w/o piezo igniter attached fuel
type: LP-gas canisters)
___ Stove Fuel--white gas or butane/propane canister (keep butane/propane canister inside your sleeping bag if temperature is below freezing), if melting snow for water, take extra fuel.
___
1 medium pot w/lid & pot handle
___ Lexan or Titanium spoon
FOOD:
(Here are some suggestions for you to choose from)
Breakfast:
___ Hot chocolate
___ Coffee, Tea
___ Instant Hot Cider
___ Instant Oatmeal (variety)
___ Instant Cream of Wheat
___ Malt O' Meal (w/brown sugar)
___ Granola
___ Nature Valley Granola bars (variety)
___ Dried fruit (apples, raisins)
Lunch:
___ Gorp (nuts, seeds, dried fruit, M&Ms)
___ Bagels
___ String Cheese
___ Hard Cheese (lasts longer)
___
Jerky or salami
___ Cookies
___ Crackers
Dinner:
___ Instant soup (Lipton's Chicken Noodle & Cream of Chicken)
___ Freeze-dried dinners (preparable in their own foil container)
--Mountain House: Lasagna,
Spaghetti, Pasta Primavera, Chili Mac
--Mountain House (All Natural):
Noodles & Chicken, Chicken Polynesian, Beef Stroganoff
___ Mountain House Freeze-dried desserts (Fruit Crisps--peaches, strawberries)
Dinner
Spices (keep dry in
small transparent canisters)
___ onion powder
___ garlic powder
___ pre-mixed, ground dried herbs
___ pepper (red or black)
Other Non-Cook
Nourishment--Good for Snacks
___ Tiger's Milk Bars
___ Licorice Sticks
___ Kudos
___ Bear Valley MealPacks
___ Power Bars (Berry)
___ Chewing Gum
___ Gatorade
___ Bagels, English muffins
___ String cheese (individually wrapped)
___ Chocolate & candy
___ Dried fruit (raisins, apples, pears, peaches, bananas)
___ Dried meat and fish
___ Giant pretzels
___ Raw fruit / vegetables
___ Nuts
___ Pop Tarts
___ Fig/Peach/Apple Newtons
___ Crackers
Tenacious Attitude:
Ruthless scrutiny of each piece of outdoor gear is key. First, evaluate each item of gear for its necessity and functionality -- some pieces of gear can serve multiple purpose, some are along for the ride, just in case. The longer you look at each piece with an attitude -- i.e., is it worthy of being in your pack, ON YOUR AGING BACK -- the more its value will increase or decrease. The only "just-in-case" pieces of gear that I carry fall within the "Fourteen-Essentials" category -- e.g., first aid/last aid kit, emergency fire starter, etc. Everything else is a critical piece of gear that provides at least one function, every day.
Once you've selected the items of gear that are absolutely necessary AND have unduplicated functionality, then start your search for its smallest and lightest manifestation. Here is where complications arise. You may have the attitude, but no bucks in your pocket. Compromise! Buy (and/or make) the smallest, lightest, highest quality you can afford.
My experience has been that most of the high-end expensive items that I have purchased have endured much better than their low-end counterparts, such that the expensive stuff is actually cheaper in the long run. Like I say, that's my experience. You'll have to engage in your own mental gymnastics for what you can justify and what you can't.
Many items of backpacking gear can be used for multiple purposes. The practice of using one piece of equipment for more than one purpose will often allow you to leave other equipment items at home. Again, take the time to scrutinize each piece of gear as to the possibilities.
Multiple Purpose Gear:
Parachute cord--clothesline, securing splints, line for traction splint, food bag line,
Swiss Army Knife--knife, scissors, saw, awl......
Candles--light for reading/writing, wax as fire starter, wax as waterproofing agent
Duct Tape--moleskin substitute, bandage wrap, gear repair (packs, boots, poles...), splint wrap, emergency sunglasses
Sleeping Bag--emergency stretcher or litter
Cooking Pot--bowl for eating, cup for hot drinks
Water Bottle--cup for hot drinks
Backpack Metal Stays--splints
Hiking Poles--avalanche probe, splints,
Snow Sh